This project started after a failed attempt to get the car running after putting my engine back in.
I ran into far too many wiring issues with the original 50-year-old wiring harness and finally gave up
and decided it was time to bite the bullet on this project. I looked at the various options available
from universal harnesses to the factory replacement type kits from companies like Painless Performance
and American Autowire. Based on the modified nature of my car, my wiring experience, and the numerous
reviews I had read, I landed on going with the American Autowire harness as a replacement. The kit I used
is here
at the American Autowire site. It is ideal if you have things like a 1-wire alternator, electric fan, etc.
I am not going to provide a complete guide to the kit as there are a number of good references including the following:
For the installation you really need to buy the recommended crimping tools. The good news is the price has
come down a bit if you buy the set for $150 at SummitRacing.com. I decided to buy the Painless Performance
Classic Braid as well to wrap the entire harness. A lot of guys are using various products depending on cost.
The Classic Braid is somewhat more expensive, but the quality is great. If your budget can afford it I would
highly recommend it. The one negative is that the wrapping took considerable time overall. In the end it is
well worth it and I expect that this harness being fully protected will last as long as I own the car. They
recommend soldering every terminal that you install.
Like any project there are some specifics I did on my install worth noting:
- Fuse box location — The kit wants you to install the fuse box on the firewall right where
the factory AC hoses go out. My car has a factory AC and I wanted to retain it, so I chose to install the
harness in basically the same location as the factory harness. I did not run into any issues with this
other than it is probably slightly more cramped, especially because I have the hardware for the Modern
Driveline hydraulic clutch that shares some of that same space.
- Neutral safety switch bypass — Since I have a T-5 and don't have a NSS mounted to my
clutch pedal, I decided to wire the kit up without use of a NSS. To do this they specify soldering the
6 (Purple - Starter Solenoid) wire to the 5 (Purple Neutral Safety Switch). Effectively all this does
is extend the 5 wire to get to the starter solenoid.
- Hidden engine bay wiring — I ran the main wiring under the passenger side fender to the
solenoid and the front of the car. I placed the MSD 6AL box and coil behind the glove box in the interior,
and ran the sensor wires and distributor wires from the firewall through one of the holes where the heater
hoses normally run through. All this was possible because I live in the south and have no need for a heater.
- T-5 backup light wiring — The kit didn't explicitly explain how to do this but I found
some information on it
here.
You need the T-5 backup harness (around $15) and wire up the 24 (Light Green Backup Light Switch) and the
39B (Pink 12V Ignition) wires to it.
- Hurst Roll Control — I had one on my 06 GT and loved it! I wired in a light on my gauge
cluster to let me know when it is engaged and used the switch that comes with the kit that mounts on the
shifter. The AWW kit made this a snap as the connectors to the gauge cluster had provisions for a few
additional items and I just plugged my extra wires in there.
Project Pictures
Coming Soon!
